Let's Get Jiggy with some Printer Tips!
- Adjusting the bed (multiple times using a spacing card.)
- FIXING the bed (possibly needs to be done on Patrick's printer)
- Alcohol cleaning
- The factory hot-end is actually PLASTIC lined -- This means you get much less stable temps
- With a metal hot end, you get more consistent melt
- You can extrude faster (you're not losing as much of the heat)
- You don't get filament "retraction" which can really mess up layers
- Uses a "Thermal Barrier" -- By using two different metals (stainless steel and aluminum) you can keep heat in the lower portion, and conduct heat away in the upper portion.
- 3D Printer Thoughts
"I am sure there have many discussions about 3D printers here. But I am tossing between two printers and looking to get some input from the group.
The first printer is the LulzBot Mini 3D Printer. My local Microcenter has them in stock at $1,199. The second printer is the Monoprice Maker Ultimate 3D printer for $699 (of course kicking myself as I missed when it was on sale about a month ago for $549, and none of their codes work for 3D printers!).
Anyway, for the price difference, is there really a much of a difference?"
- Heated Borosilicate Glass Bed
- 152 x 152 x 158
- 275mm/sec (at 0.18 height)
- ABS, PLA, HIPS, PVA, Wood, Polyester, PETT, bronze & copper, Polycarb, Nylon, PETG, conductive PLA/ABS, UV, PCTPE
- 1 Yr Warranty
- Heated Bed (Metal with build tape)
- 200 x 200 x 175
- Same layout of filaments
- 1 Yr Warranty
Connect with us!
- Don't forget to check out our large library of projects at https://twit.tv/shows/know-how.
- Join our Google+ Community.
- Tweet at us at @PadreSJ, @PDelahanty, @TWiT_Raccoon, and @Anelf3.
Thanks to CacheFly for the bandwidth for this show.