Know How...

Sep 28th 2017

Know How... 348

3D Printer Troubleshooting

Is there a difference between a $1200 3D Printer vs. a $700 one?

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Category: Help & How To

Let's Get Jiggy with some Printer Tips!

  1. Adjusting the bed (multiple times using a spacing card.)
  2. FIXING the bed (possibly needs to be done on Patrick's printer)
  3. Hairspray
  4. Alcohol cleaning

The Micro Swiss MK10 All-Metal Hotend Conversion Kit

  • The factory hot-end is actually PLASTIC lined -- This means you get much less stable temps
  • With a metal hot end, you get more consistent melt
  • You can extrude faster (you're not losing as much of the heat)
  • You don't get filament "retraction" which can really mess up layers
    • Uses a "Thermal Barrier" -- By using two different metals (stainless steel and aluminum) you can keep heat in the lower portion, and conduct heat away in the upper portion.

Andy Say
- 3D Printer Thoughts
"I am sure there have many discussions about 3D printers here.  But I am tossing between two printers and looking to get some input from the group.

The first printer is the LulzBot Mini 3D Printer.  My local Microcenter has them in stock at $1,199.  The second printer is the Monoprice Maker Ultimate 3D printer for $699 (of course kicking myself as I missed when it was on sale about a month ago for $549, and none of their codes work for 3D printers!).

Anyway, for the price difference, is there really a much of a difference?"

The LulzBot Mini

  • Heated Borosilicate Glass Bed
  • 152 x 152 x 158
  • 275mm/sec (at 0.18 height)
  • ABS, PLA, HIPS, PVA, Wood, Polyester, PETT, bronze & copper, Polycarb, Nylon, PETG, conductive PLA/ABS, UV, PCTPE
  • 1 Yr Warranty

Monoprice Maker Ultimate

  • Heated Bed (Metal with build tape)
  • 200 x 200 x 175
  • 150mm/sec
  • Same layout of filaments
  • 1 Yr Warranty

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