Hands-On Tech 182 Transcript

Please be advised this transcript is AI-generated and may not be word for word. Time codes refer to the approximate times in the ad-supported version of the show.

0:00:00 - Mikah Sargent
Coming up on Hands-On Tech. We kick off the show talking about butt dialing, then we get into some questions about iOS, how to use the Reminders app in a way that it gives you expected results, plus replacing an old drive with a newer one, and so much more. Coming up on Hands-On Tech.

Welcome to Hands-On Tech, the show where sometimes I review products and sometimes I answer your questions. What's going to happen today? Well you know if you listen to the tease, but if you got one of those podcast apps that skips the intro of the show. Then you have no idea what's about to happen. But this week I will be answering some questions for you. We may have a review episode coming up just around the river bend, as they say, but let's kick things off with a question that comes in from Joseph.

Joseph writes in and says I was woken up this morning at 4 am in St Louis by my iPhone making an outbound call to my brother in Los Angeles. At 2 am he called me back and said I had called him four times. Long story short, I just retired a pair of Bluetooth headphones that I had used for five plus years. The power button had a feature where, if you pressed it just right, it would call back the last person you were talking to. I had never figured out exactly how that feature worked. This week the headphones malfunctioned and started repeatedly power cycling and refused to turn off. I quickly realized, at 4 am, that the headphones were butt dialing and unpaired the headphone. My suggestion to your listener is take an audit of your connected Bluetooth devices and unpair old devices. My question is once or twice a month, my iPhone SE 2020 randomly butt dials, or I'll receive a butt dial from a friend I had previously turned off. Raise to wake.

As per Micah on this podcast, I am stumped at what causes butt dialing. Any suggestions? So, first and foremost, I don't know that butt dialing is a universal term, so I did want to kind of start there by explaining that. What Joseph is talking about is the idea that your phone is making a call without your taking action to make a call. So that means that you know your phone is in your pocket, your phone is sitting down and you look down and suddenly your phone has made a call to someone else. Very frustrating because you know you never know. I've been in situations where I'm sitting there having a conversation with somebody. I look down, I see that the phone has made a call and I'm going. What have I just say to this person? Was I in the middle of a doctor appointment and now suddenly my teacher from high school, who ran the debate club and so I had her phone number, is listening in on my conversation with my doctor. It can be very frustrating. So butt dialing, as we call it, especially here in the United States, is that concept.

Now I want to start with what Joseph suggested, which is that it's always a good idea to go in and kind of audit your Bluetooth connections On an iPhone. It's very simple to do. We can launch the settings app and then one of the first settings here is Bluetooth, and at any point you can see the different devices that you've connected over time, and down at the bottom are devices that you can then connect if you'd like to, afterward. Now I'm looking through the list and I can see that there's an item in here that says RB Meta 00JQ. Those are Meta Ray-Ban glasses that I no longer have, and so that's an item that I just don't need to have in my Bluetooth list anymore. So the way that I get rid of that item is by tapping on the little eye information icon to the right of that listing, and when I tap into that I can see that there are some different settings here Because of the way that these were set up.

They were set up kind of like a car radio in the Bluetooth profile, so they have the ability to, for example, sync contacts for calls and messages and also allow messages to appear on the device. They don't actually appear, but on the Ray-Ban Meta glasses on their end it will allow the notification to be read essentially out loud into your ear. But all I want to do is tap, forget this device and then confirm by tapping it again. Now each of these are showing up that one has disappeared, and I can go through and see if there's anything else in here that I no longer use, and pretty much everything else here is stuff that I want to have as part of my Bluetooth connections. Now, in order to connect to an item that is disconnected, I look for one that says not connected and I tap on it and that will connect. Some devices will automatically connect, some won't, so you may have to hop into this to take care of that, but at any point it is a good idea to go through your devices and just remove ones that are no longer there anymore so that you don't run into an issue like this. But let's talk about butt dialing in general and what can cause it.

As Joseph mentioned, one of the things that I suggest that people be aware of with an iPhone in particular is the raise to wake option that is in the settings app as well. Raise to wake basically uses the iPhone's built-in sensors to feel, as it were, you lifting the device, and when you lift the device then it turns on the screen and at the same time, if it is a screen that has face ID, it will go ahead and kind of activate face ID, try to capture your face and then unlock the phone. The problem with Raise to Wake that I have experienced at least, is if the phone is in a place where I'm not trying to unlock it and it just so happens to catch a glimpse of my face, it may go ahead and unlock, which gives access to the buttons that are on the inside of the phone well, buttons being the screen, the touchscreen and could therefore launch one of those sections and then maybe get to the phone somehow. A couple of tips If you keep your phone in your pocket, one thing I'm very mindful of is having the screen facing out, away from my body. So instead of having the screen facing in toward your body, where there's a chance that if it's a hot day outside and you're wearing jeans or some other long pants and the pocket which is closer to your flesh than the outside of the pants gets a little sweaty, that moisture can touch up against the capacitive screen and then it can accidentally trigger different button presses. So that is one issue. If you've ever taken your phone into the shower which some people do and had little water droplets hit the screen and kind of move down, you may have seen your screen activate different things. Maybe it's the play, pause button or something else. That's because the screen is capacitive, so it feels essentially for the electricity, the conductive ability of your finger, and uses that to determine what is being tapped, what is being pressed on. Now again, as Joseph pointed out, different Bluetooth-connected devices may also have the ability to do inputs of some sort. There are lots of different little remotes and things that you can connect to your phone, sometimes for your car, and any of those has the ability to interact in a very basic level with your device.

So in the case of this Bluetooth headset, it sounds like what happened is the button that was responsible for turning on and off. Really, what it sounds like to me is it got a little water damaged and so the buttons, which the way that most physical electronic buttons work, is by providing a little point of contact inside, and at most points the point of contact is lifted away from the little area that feels essentially for a connection, and then, when you press, it touches the one piece to the other, almost like a capacitive touchscreen, and that tells the system this person is interacting with this button. If water or certain substances that are conductive get inside of that space, then it can result in a connection continuing to happen, given that the button that you would press and hold the power button where you press and hold it would call the last person you were talking to. That tells me that that button in some way either was damaged or had water inside of it. Something was causing it to fire and seem as if it was connected more than it should have been. So that was causing the power cycling. That's why it refused to turn off, and so if you're going to do something like that, then at that point, yeah, it's time to retire that device, unless you could take it apart, potentially and, you know, deoxidize it. But that's a really involved process. So, joseph, I think you made the right choice by getting rid of that Bluetooth device and, of course, the reminder to unpair old devices.

Now, when it comes to, once or twice a month seemingly getting these random butt dials or sending them again. The one recommendation having your phone facing away from you when it's in your pocket If you have an Apple Watch, you may be someone who needs to turn off the feature where your Apple Watch can unlock your phone. That's also been an issue for me. It is convenient enough for me that I keep it turned on, but there have been a number of times where I go to pull my phone out of my pocket and I'm suddenly in some app because the phone has unlocked, thinking that it's okay to do so, and that can be frustrating because I've had it change calendar events on me and that is where it came close to resulting in me disabling that feature. So ultimately it just comes down to a feature somewhere.

Joseph, what would be super cool is if our phones had something that Amazon recently added to the ALEXA lineup, which is at any point. You could ask your Echo why did that just happen, and the Echo will explain to you what series of things resulted in, whatever action the device took. So when, for example, you're watching a show and something made the sound that sounded like A-L-E-X-A, then A-L-E-X-A activated. You might not realize that what the sound was sounded a little bit like the word and caused it to activate. You could say out loud why did that just happen? And the device will tell you. I just heard my trigger word. I'm not exactly sure what Amazon's exact verbiage is, but that is something to be aware of.

In this case, it would be nice if we had, I should say, easy access to kind of look back at why a specific thing happened, and I'd love to see that added in a future version of iOS. Given that Siri is getting more powerful over time, it would be great if it had access to what are called the console logs, because you could technically plug in your phone to a Mac and pull up the console and look back in the logs and find out what happened. The logs and find out what happened. If you can decode the logs and what each of them mean, you could have figured out why it did that butt dial at that specific point, because it'll tell you what inputs took place, what outputs, et cetera, et cetera, what was running everything else. Wouldn't it be great if I could say, terry, why did you just place that call? And for it to say well, that's because you had Apple Watch Raise to Wake turned on and Unlock turned on. I unlocked the device because the Apple Watch is on your wrist and then you pressed the button to place a phone call. And then you go oh right, because I grabbed my phone and it was unlocked and my fingers just happened to press the exact series of buttons necessary to place the phone call. So, joseph, I hope that provides some clarity. Great advice to our listeners, and you know, going forward, let's hope that we see even more improvements there to know what the heck is going on. All right, we're going to take a quick break soon, but I do have one more question. That we see even more improvements there to know what the heck is going on. All right, we're going to take a quick break soon, but I do have one more question that we'll get to before that break.

This one comes in from James and James writes in and asks why, on iPhone 15, when I add a reminder, either on my phone or on the Mac, to a list, does it show under other and not under the main list, requiring me to move it manually to the main list. Now, james did provide a screenshot, but it's okay, I'm going to be able to show you what this looks like for those of you who are watching this show. In a reminders list, you are able to create different sections. So I actually want to pop out of here and add a new list, and we'll call this hands on tech. We'll make it green, of course, we'll make it a standard list and we will put an is there something techie? Ah, yes, a beautiful old computer. We'll tap done. Now I've got my hands on tech list.

So let's go with the first reminder. We'll call it review questions, and then we'll do another one that says compile show notes, and then we'll do another one that says do your hair, and then we'll do another one that says mic check, and then those are all of the reminders that I have Right now. This is just one section, but I can tap on any of these reminders. Tap and hold and I can move it to a new section. So down in the menu that pops up it says new section with selection. I'll choose that item and now I'll give this a section title, which will be a show prep and then do your hair would be a let's go, move to section and we'll choose new selection or new section and we'll call this self prep.

So now I've got these different sections right and what James is talking about here is if down in the bottom left corner I hit new reminder. Talking about here is if down in the bottom left corner I hit new reminder, it only shows up in others. What James wants is for it to show up in the top option. The top section in reminders Does not want it to show up in others, is annoyed that James has to move it to a different section. Totally understandable. But here's all you have to do. Instead of tapping on new reminder down in the bottom left-hand corner, all you need to do is tap in the blank space below the reminders that you have in a given section. So if I wanted to add something to show prep, I would tap in that blank space below review questions and say respond to emails. Now I'm making additions to that section of my reminders without it popping into others. So by default it drops it into the others section because it's basically unsorted. But if you want it in a specific section, all you have to do is tap on the area below the section title and then you're able to put it there. So, james, I hope that helps and gives you exactly the information you were looking for. All right, let's take a quick break before we come back with some more great questions from listeners on this episode of Hands-On Tech.

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This next question comes in from Jay Heitken, and Jay writes in with, I think, a really fun question. Jay says I have a 2018 i7 5K iMac with a three terabyte Fusion drive. For folks who don't know, a Fusion drive is an old school drive from Apple that essentially tried to bridge the gap between performance and storage space while maintaining really good pricing SSD, a solid state drive and an HD a hard drive with, you know, spinning platter hard drive tricked the system into believing it was one drive and what they would do? What the system would do is pay attention to your use cases over time, see what stuff you access most often, what applications you use most often, and then put that information onto the most active stuff onto the SSD, with the rest of it being stored on the slower, spinning hard drive. So then you got much more performance at the time, even though SSDs were very expensive. So you could get a small SSD baked in with a lot more storage space three terabytes of hard drive space. Now again, those Fusion drives were great at the time, but over time storage has become much more reasonable and, given that that is the case, it's not as fast as it once was. So Jay goes on to say it is a wonderful computer. It's about 40% full, only 40% full, and I have noticed that it tends to be slow at times, especially when using programs such as iMovie.

What are your thoughts about upgrading the drive to an SSD? Is that possible? Are there any good solutions for this type of upgrade? I am tech savvy and can do that if it's worth the time, effort and cost. Now, as ScooterX has pointed out in the chat, there's not a 2018 i7, 5k iMac. So, jay, the first thing I would suggest that you do is click on the little Apple icon in the top left corner of your screen, choose about this Mac and then see what Apple lists your Mac as, how it describes your Mac, because that will give you an understanding of what your iMac actually is, what year, et cetera, versus the option that you have suggested.

Now, if you are wanting to do this, there are a couple of options, um, one that I'll mention from scooter x, again in the chat you can use an external drive, an external ssd, as your means of of using the machine, because it has thunderbolt. Then you're going to get pretty good speeds, and that will probably improve things. It is going to get pretty good speeds and that will probably improve things. It is going to depend on the RAM that you have in your system in particular. That might be the issue, but here's what I want to say to you, jay I looked into this and iFixit as a great guide for replacing the Fusion Drive with an SSD.

Now, you did say that you are pretty tech savvy, and then you told me that it was a 2018 iMac, and so there's just a little bit of concern, um that I want to make sure that, if you go this route, you have the wherewithal, the understanding of how to, to go through this whole process, but we'll include links to it in the show notes just so you have this information. Um, you start by doing a time machine backup of your drive. You need to do a time machine backup to an external drive, of course and then you can, after that point, use migration assistance to put all of this information on the new drive once you install it. Now I'm thinking that you probably have a 2019 iMac as opposed to the 2018 iMac, and there is a whole process from iFixit that shows you how to do the hard drive replacement for that Intel iMac of 2019. You can also include the device, uh, or all of the the necessary hardware and tools that you need to be able to do that. So let's talk about pricing. Right now, you have a three terabyte drive, um, and, of course, that's, you know, mostly spinning hard drive, some SSD, but you said it's about 40% full. So a two terabyte SSD is probably going to be okay for you.

If you decided to go this route, the kit from iFixit that works for the mid-2017 to 2019 Intel iMac is a $100 kit, and this kit includes all the pieces that you need to do this SSD upgrade Okay. It has the components necessary to kind of keep your Mac in place, the components necessary to replace the internals, to make sure that this SSD will fit inside, and then to buy the SSD. Ifixit suggests the OWC Aura Pro X2 SSD, mostly because of compatibility understandings, assuming you'd want to get two terabytes, so $230. So with that you would have a $230 plus a $100. Although this is showing oh, I see, you can actually buy the whole kit as one. So let me rewind here. For $250, you can get the necessary storage space and the pieces necessary to do the upgrade. So I apologize, when I first looked at this it seemed like it was just the kit that cost that much money. So $250 all told will give you the components and the actual part to be able to do this replacement. Then there's a great replacement guide. Ifixit rates it at moderate and takes about one to three hours to do the replacement.

So if you feel like that's something that you're up to, my most stringent recommendation here is much like any recipe, it's so important that you read through the instructions all the way first before you decide to set sail and take on this task. Read through it, check in with yourself. How do you feel about completing this process. If you feel good about it, you know, proceed from there, but it's never for the faint of heart. Make sure you do all of your backups first, make sure you're ready to go, make sure you have all of your components. Again, make sure you've read everything, please. And then this is something that's possible.

Now it just comes down to is it worth that $250 cost to upgrade your SSD? Now that is paired with the question of how much RAM affects the speeds that you're dealing with, because you talked about iMovie. So if you had said that this was just like you launched the Photos app're dealing with because you talked about iMovie. So if you had said that this was just like you launched the Photos app, for example, and it's very slow whenever it's looking through your photos, that's one thing where it's mostly going to be an SSD. But a video editing application is going to rely more heavily on RAM than something like photos, which is just kind of mostly relying on storage, trying to look into the storage and see what it's doing. So that's something to keep in mind as well.

You may get to the end of this and it hasn't made that much of a difference for you, and in that case you may end up kind of disappointed that you've spent the money on it. So that is yes, and somebody in the chat is also pointing out watching a video of someone doing the modification is a really great thing as well. So, on top of reading through the instructions, just seeing someone else do it Sometimes you can pick up on pitfalls. That way you can just see how your hands need to move and do the things they need to do is a really good tip. So thank you, wizardling. That's a great great idea to also check that out.

So, jay, I think my advice is be honest with yourself first and foremost. After you've been honest with yourself, if you feel like you're ready to proceed, look through these steps, look for a replacement guide and make sure that you have that Now. Scooter X in the chat has said I watched the iMac video many times. So watch the process of replacing. I have the iFixit toolkits. I have years of experience and still just opted to boot from an external Thunderbolt 3 SSD. So you may decide that it's not for the faint of heart and you are the faint of heart, in which case an external SSD might be something that you decide to do. Instead. We'll include a link in the show notes to the OWC Envoy Express, which is a Thunderbolt drive that you add your own drive to Sorry, it's an enclosure that you add your own drive to and so that way you can have that external storage option. That could speed things up. This may be the way to go, because then you don't have as much work to do really any at all, it's just an investment in the cost and then you will be able to proceed that way. So, yes, I love doing repairs and replacements and digging into things and I think it's a lot of fun, but I think that it requires commitment and time and you assume a not small amount of risk in doing so. So, just yeah, again, be honest with yourself.

All right, let's move on to our next question, which comes from Ross. Ross writes in and says the following should I use my Apple TV 4K box or use the built-in apps on my TCL 4K? The reason I'm asking is I purchased a 65-inch 4K TCL TV from Costco for $349 Canadian. I purchased a Sony 5.2 receiver, 4k HDR, dolby Vision and high-res audio receiver. I have my cable box and my Apple TV 4K connected to the receiver and I have the TV connected to the receiver using ARC with a high-speed 4K HDMI cable. In fact, all of them are using the high-speed 4K. Watching any app within the Apple TV 4K, I get an error, lost signal, the screen goes black and then it comes back on. When I use the apps on the television or my cable box, there is no issue. I have my Apple TV 4K connected using ethernet and I have 1.5 gigabits fiber down and up. My TV is using wifi, so it can't be the internet. I was thinking it was my receiver, so I replaced my older one with the new one and I'm still having the same issue.

All right, ross, there are a few things that need to be interrogated here. There's a lot that's involved with making this process go off without a hitch. The first one is you say that you have high-speed 4K HDMI cables. I would have loved to have gotten the exact model of 4K cables that you have. If you bought them at a big box store, if you bought them on Amazon with a good deal, if you got them at a gas station, it really depends. The cable really makes a difference and there are lots of brands out there that will kind of put whatever labeling they want on their cables, and it may or may not be what you're expecting.

I heartily recommend the Cable Matters HDMI cables that we've recommended in the past. I can speak for those as being good cables that genuinely work and work well. So I do think it starts with the cable. It's worth, you know, either on Amazon or wherever ordering, just order one of these cables, one of these HDMI cables, plug that in and see if that makes a difference without doing anything else. If it does, then you've got your answer. If it doesn't, you can always return the cable. Just try it as soon as you get it. If it doesn't make a difference, you could always send it back. Although they're really cost effective, never hurts to have an extra one. Then we have to go into the settings. So all of these devices all have different settings that all make a difference on what is happening.

It sounds like you have your pieces put together in the right way the television going into the arc port on the receiver. I assume that the television going into the arc port on the receiver is also connected to the arc port on the television. On a TCL, it's usually the last one in the line, so if you have two, for example, it's usually the second one. If you have three, it's usually the third one. Make sure that the television also matches up with the receiver. It sounds like, again, that's correct. It's doing what it's supposed to do. Because of the fact that you've said that playing shows from your television on its own is giving you what you'd expect, and playing things from your cable box is also giving things for what you would expect.

After that point, there is a setting within the Apple TV that does an HDMI check. So you go into the settings on the Apple TV and you go into, um, the exact setting is like audio and video and within that section there's an HDMI uh check for the Apple TV, and I'm going to get the exact option here. Um, so that you are uh, here we go, it's go, you go to settings and then you go to audio and video and then from there you choose check HDMI connection. This is going to go through a whole process and when you do that, then it's going to basically run some signals through everything and make sure that everything's good to go. Your TV supports HDR10, hdr10+ or Dolby Vision. We know that. We know that your receiver absolutely does.

You need to make sure that the television is also set correctly. If you listened to the previous episode, you may have heard me talk about how, on the TCL Roku TV usually these are Roku TVs you also need to make sure that the specific settings for the television are set up to get the HDMI connection from the Apple TV. So what I have recommended in the past and what I continue to recommend is in the main settings for the TCL television so the home screen you go into the settings, you'll find a section that says HDMI CEC, click on that and then click scan. This is going to kind of do a pairing between your television and any HDMI CEC-enabled device, which is going to be the Apple TV and that receiver at the very least. And I know that HDMI CEC is different from what is happening here with ARC, but you just want to be, you want to give the television the best chance it has to have all of the connections properly routed and understood. So I always like to start there because it's an opportunity for the two devices to look at each other and go how do you do? How do you do? And that they both know that they're there, and I've just had good luck in doing that no-transcript Again. Then go to Settings, video and Audio, select. Check HDMI Connection.

Then here are some steps that you can take. If you're using an audio video receiver or a soundbar, temporarily connect your Apple TV 4K directly to your television. If the issue doesn't occur when it's directly connected to your television, then there's something going on with the receiver. Okay, what you want to do at that point is make sure that it is, of course, able to, which you have. You know that it can do 4K, hdr, wv, da-da-da-da-da.

You need to check the video and HDMI settings on the receiver and make sure that enhanced HDMI is turned on in settings. If it's not, so, that's, in some cases, earc and then make sure that all of the HDMI cables connected to your Apple TV 4K, to your TV are compatible, of course, with that 4K and HDR video. So, again, every single component in the chain needs to be set with the proper settings in order for everything to work as it needs to. The best things that you can do just plug your Apple TV directly into the television, go to it, see if that works. Then at least you've narrowed it down to. It's not the cable, or it's likely not the cable, and it's probably something going on with the settings with the receiver, then you something going on with the settings with the receiver, then you can play around with the settings of the receiver. Make sure that that's lined up properly, because some things will automatically click into place and some things won't. That's the nature of a home theater components. Is that occasionally that kind of plug and play? Uh, compatibility just isn't plug and play, it's plug fiddle, play and then you get to where you're trying to go.

Ross, I would love to hear more from you If you tried all of these steps, if you tried all of these settings and if you got there in the end. And, frankly, from anybody who writes in let us know once your question has been answered, if it's helped. Love to have follow-up too, if your question was answered and you're still struggling. We've got a great group of folks in our Discord who are also here providing suggestions and all together we can get there in the end to the answer that you're looking for. One other thing that ScooterX in the chat has suggested is make sure that your new receiver, which you may not have plugged in via Ethernet or connected to the internet or, if it's not internet, connected itself, go to Sony's online portal check if it's not internet connected itself. Go to Sony's online portal, check if it has a firmware update and, if it does, follow the process to do the firmware update, because it really can be that it just needs a firmware update.

Apple TVs and other set-top boxes among kind of the milieu, if you will, of home theater devices, set-top boxes Among kind of the milieu, if you will, of home theater devices set-top boxes are devices that get updated a lot more frequently than some of the more classic home theater devices, and so they can quickly kind of outdate other components in the chain, and making sure that you have the latest firmware on those, as they're kind of trying to play catch up, is a great way to ensure the compatibility there. So again, ross, I wish you the best of luck and would love to hear what ended up working for you Folks. That is going to bring us to the end of this episode of Hands On Tech. I appreciate you for tuning in today or for watching later. As a subscriber, I will remind you that you can send in your questions. I've gotten some great questions as of late. hot@twit.v is how you get in touch. hot@twit.v Would love to hear from you, would love to hear what questions you have and, of course, if you hear a question and you're like I know the exact answer to that, write in with that as well. We'll feature those on the show from time to time. Thank you so much for being here.

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